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Silver Spirit - South and Central America Cruise Travel Log

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Pisco, Peru - A Day at Tambo Colorado and Sumaqkay Peru
Tambo Colorado Inca Ruins in the Pisco River Valley of Peru

Tambo Colorado Inca Ruins in the Pisco River Valley of Peru

Tambo Colorado (c) Linda Garrison
The Silver Spirit docked near Pisco, Peru in the Paracas National Reserve. This place was very dry and desert-like, with sand dunes and rocky hills. We could see the Andes Mountains not far away. Our tour left the ship at 9:30 am, which was nice--we didn't have to set a clock or rush around. The tour bus drove through the desert for quite a ways before reaching the Pan American Highway, which we took north into Pisco. The bus turned right (east) and we soon were out of the desert and in the Pisco Valley. It was gorgeous and very agricultural, with many grape vineyards (used to make Pisco, the famous grape brandy), corn, cotton, asparagus, and artichokes, etc.

There was a 7.9 earthquake in the area in 2007, and they are still trying to re-build. The weather is always sunny (only rains every 25 years or so) and warm, so there wasn't the rush to rebuild houses you might find in wetter, cooler, locales. Our guide said that the government only pays to rebuild homes and businesses if an earthquake is over 8.0 since all construction is supposed to meet those criteria. He said that some systems registered over 8.0, but the government said the official ones were only 7.9. Sounds like problems people have with insurance/government back home!

The area seemed very poor, with people living in small homes. However, the unemployment rate is low compared to the rest of Peru because most people can find work on the farms. It's probably better to be poor in the country than in the city.

After turning east near Pisco, our tour rode along the Pisco River (which only flows when the snow is melting in the mountains) to the Inca ruins at Tambo Colorado, which date back to the 1400's. It was built of adobe bricks and is well-preserved. The large site included a plaza with a sacrificial altar (according to our guide, not for sacrificing humans, just corn and the occasional llama.) We spent about an hour touring with our guide Pedro, who showed us the baths and sleeping rooms. The rooms had many window-sized "niches" carved into the walls where the Incas displayed their idols. The site featured amazing views of the surrounding mountains.

We rode back the same way, stopping at the Fundo (hacienda) Carrizales, which houses the Sumaqkay Peru artisans' workshop. They make beautiful tapestries at this location, along with purses, scarves, clothing, and gifts. I looked at some bags, but didn't buy (about $100-$200; not bad). We also had a taste of Pisco 100, the most expensive Peruvian Pisco, which is 100 percent grapes. They don't even add water to the juice! It takes 8 kilos (almost 20 pounds) of grapes to make 1 liter of Pisco 100. I love Pisco sours, but straight, it was like drinking moonshine. The young wine is distilled to make the brandy, which ends up about 50 percent (or more) alcohol.

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