Cruise Reviews

Cruise Line: Renaissance
Ship: R3
Date of Cruise: May 27-June 6, 2000

Paradise . . .Found!
By: Jackie W. Bernard

What an appropriate title for the culmination of a life-long fantasy! My ultimate dream of visiting French Polynesia has finally come true. As I await the departure of our Hawaiian Airlines flight to Tahiti, I reflect on the journey I have already undertaken in preparation for this voyage...the countless tidbits of information I have accumulated, the numerous wonderful people I have "met" online and the experience of putting it all together to plan the trip of a lifetime.

PROLOGUE

It all began in October of 1999. I had been begging my husband, Hank, for over a year about taking me to French Polynesia...one of the last places on earth that is, to some degree, still unspoiled. When Hank agreed that I should look into possible itineraries I was absolutely blown away! I immediately began researching possibilities on the Internet, quickly finding that perhaps I had bitten off a little more than I could chew. I had no idea there was so much detail involved in putting together a voyage of such magnitude! First there was the expense of getting there - the airfare alone was staggering. Add to that the fact that I'm an extremely fearful flyer with no clue about which airline I could trust to get me there safely. And then there is the cost of lodging...bungalows in paradise are not cheap! They can cost $800 - $ 1,000 per night. And of course I didn't intend to limit myself to visiting just one island - I wanted to experience the essence of Heaven on earth. So by the time I combined the expense & anxiety of air travel, accommodations and transfers between islands I realized I was a little short on both finances and travel experience to plan this journey.

Then, as luck would have it, I received a brochure in the mail from Renaissance Cruises. My first inclination was to throw it in the garbage with the rest of my junk mail. But then a flash of color caught my eye...it was the most beautiful blue water I had ever seen! Ahhh, the South Pacific! Now they really had my attention. I opened the brochure and began to peruse the information on Tahiti and the South Pacific. Lo and behold, Renaissance Cruises offers an itinerary much more extensive than I had hoped for...five islands! The more I thought about it, the more it made sense to me. I wouldn't have to worry about airfare, since it's included with the cruise/tour. In addition, Renaissance has an exclusive agreement with Hawaiian Airlines - a company with an impressive safety record...believe me, I checked them out thoroughly! The concern about spending $ 1,000 per night for a beach bungalow flew right out the window, because Renaissance has ships with balconies - who could ask for anything more? (I can just envision beautiful blue lagoons right outside my door!) And the Renaissance itinerary is absolutely perfect...five different islands in ten days, including my personal "have-to-sees", Moorea and Bora Bora. But the most ingenious part of all was the fact that I would never have to worry about packing/unpacking our bags and transferring from one island to another. Once we arrive, all we have to do is unpack our suitcases, make ourselves at home and let Renaissance Cruises take care of the rest...sounds like a plan to me!

Without hesitation I picked up the telephone and called Renaissance Cruises directly. I spoke to our personal travel consultant and made all of the arrangements. I was informed during this initial phone call about the cancellation policy practiced by Renaissance and that they recommended we purchase travel insurance. She even gave me a list of insurance companies along with their telephone numbers for my convenience in purchasing a policy. (Which I did immediately.) I must qualify this comment by stating that I don't necessarily agree with this cancellation policy, but to be fair I was informed of it before I paid for the cruise/tour. What happened next is best summed up by inserting a copy of the message I posted on the Frommer's message board:

"I have dreamed about a vacation in Tahiti all of my life, but never really expected it to come true. Well, Renaissance Cruises changed all that. They made me an offer I just could not refuse. I received a brochure on Tahiti from Renaissance in the mail and from that moment on I could think of little else. Then a couple of months later I received an e-mail from them announcing a special rate on their "B" category suites with a private balcony. This was just too good to be true. At the last possible moment before the deadline, my husband and I decided to "go for it", so I booked the trip. After going through the process of getting all the details and payment worked out, I became nervous and decided to check out reviews and make sure we hadn't made a big mistake - fine time to get worried! So I visited Renaissance's own web site to check them out for myself. I was able to take a "virtual tour" of the entire ship (which is incredible!) and check out all of the shore excursions offered throughout the entire 10-day cruise. Renaissance even gives you the opportunity to compare prices with other cruise lines - they actually have nothing to hide - they offer the most value for the least money - period. Any questions you may still have can be addressed on their "message board". In fact, I posted a message questioning their quality. (I still feel guilty!) In no time I was contacted by a representative from their public relations department, who made me feel completely reassured. They have answered any questions or doubts I may have had about Renaissance. After much "searching" I have discovered that Renaissance is on the cutting edge when it comes to marketing their product. They provide service to a large volume of passengers. Any savings realized by Renaissance are passed along to their customers in the form of lower prices. (I purchased a 10-day cruise in Tahiti including airfare for less money than a 7-day cruise on another line which did not include airfare) In addition, the product Renaissance offers seems far superior to other cruises I investigated. Their ships are completely smoke-free as well as child-free. This cruise is for adults only, which I find attractive. Plus it's a smaller ship than the mega liners of other cruise companies. (Only accommodates 684 passengers) The atmosphere is strictly casual - somehow a tuxedo in Tahiti doesn't seem practical! You have your choice of four restaurants on the ship - you may dine wherever you like, whenever you like, with whomever you choose. What a great way to get away from it all! My hat is off to Renaissance. Thanks for the great booking experience. I firmly believe that the launch of their new fleet along with their innovative marketing strategies places them in the position of being the premier cruise line of the new century."
JB, Lafayette, LA

THE EPIC JOURNEY

It's hard to believe the day of departure has finally arrived! I've been planning this journey for eight long months. Let's get started. . .

SATURDAY, May 27th

Check-in at LAX was so smooth it was unbelievable. As I said before, flying is not my favorite thing, so we were at the airport bright and early in order to allow time for me to "prepare" myself mentally for the flight. Watching all of the airplanes take off and land was good therapy for me - if they can do it, we can too - right? Believe it or not, we arrived at the Hawaiian Airlines counter at 7:15 am. It was no problem...the friendly ticket agent just gave us a grin and took care of us immediately. Since we were the first to check in for Business Class the bulkhead row, which I've always heard is roomier, was available. The ticket agent was so sweet - she said she'd be happy to place us on Row 1 but she felt it would be difficult to see the movie screen. We were truly grateful for the advice and settled on Row 2 next to the window. We had plenty of time to kill so we were looking for something to do. The Renaissance Cruises agent on duty was so friendly and helpful. She gave us a good recommendation for a place to have breakfast and her best suggestion was to visit the rooftop observatory across the street. We spent a good deal of time there just watching the planes come and go at regular intervals - therapy, you know? It did me a world of good.

Well, here we are over the middle of the Pacific Ocean! Contrary to what my entire nervous system was telling me, I did survive the exactly on-time departure of Hawaiian Airlines flight 951. The flight attendants are aware of my problem and are taking good care of me - I feel so special! Before we even got off the ground I was sipping a champagne cocktail. (Had to ease the nerves - you understand!) The pilot says there is smooth sailing ahead and we are expecting to touch down in Papeete just in time for a spectacular sunset.

Arrival in Papeete was effortless. We touched down on schedule and were whisked through the airport with attendants at each turn to direct us to our awaiting buses. Customs was not even an issue. It was all handled in advance by the able Renaissance staff. Although the drive from airport to ship was a short one, we were struck by the quality of the city of Papeete. It was not a very welcoming site, but since all flights originate and depart from here it's a necessary evil. We'll just have to realize this is only the starting point of what we know will be a fantastic voyage. We were on board the lovely R3 in no time, and the minute we walked into our cabin the telephone was ringing. Now who would be calling us in French Polynesia? Lo and behold it was my new internet friend Claudia. She had observed us walking up the gangway and recognized us from a picture I had sent to her via e-mail. Looks like we've already begun our social calendar, so as we cajuns say, Laissez Les Bon Temps Rouler! (Let the good times roll!)

SUNDAY, May 28th

We awaken at 2:30 am and are unable to get back to sleep. This is my first experience with such a change in time zones. I guess it will take a couple of days to adjust. Since we were up and ready to go so early we were able to sit on the balcony and enjoy our coffee while watching Papeete come to life. At 6:45 we met our new friends Claudia & Steve for a journey to "Grand Marche du Papeete" for a unique shopping experience. This is the local market where Sunday is the primary gathering day for the Polynesians to meet and sell their goods. We are looking forward to making acquaintances among the local people and experiencing the Tahitian way of life. On the way to the market we found an ATM machine where we were able to get our hands on French Pacific Francs in order to purchase flowers for our rooms. The market was quite an experience. We entered and were immediately blasted by the smell of "ripe" fish! There were many Tahitian people hustling about checking out the available choices. We proceeded to the back of the market where we discovered an amazing selection of arranged flowers for a very reasonable price of 2000 francs. (Approx. $ 20.00 US) I made my selections and off we went to the R3. The flowers were a beautiful addition to our cabin and stayed fresh the entire voyage.

There was just enough time to grab a quick breakfast at the Panorama Buffet before heading out to pick up the rental car Claudia was kind enough to reserve for us. The four of us make quite a dynamic group. We get along better and grow closer with each passing hour. Claudia & Steve are big fans of snorkeling and they have heard about a good place to try, so off we go. After driving a bit we arrive at the location they are seeking. We find a spot to park the car, then walk along a dry creek bed to find a beach that looks very inviting. Along this creek bed were numerous neat looking rocks, which reminded me I was supposed to bring one back for our pastor at church. When I mentioned this to Claudia she immediately told me I couldn't do that! Apparently it is strictly "TABU" to remove a rock from the islands. If you do, you are sure to be cursed with bad luck and terrible things will happen to you. Well, Cindy, I tried to get you a rock but after all, I DO have to fly back home - I'm not taking ANY chances! I'll just have to settle for a shell and hope it will suffice.

This lovely beach in Tahiti is where I experienced my first encounter with snorkeling - what a rush! I saw some really interesting and colorful fish and coral formations. We took lots of underwater pictures since the visibility was great. Hopefully the photos will be nice. After we'd had enough we trekked back up the creek bed and took off in our chariot to explore the rest of the island. We spent a couple of hours just driving around and taking it all in. Along the way we made a stop at the Blowhole for a quick investigation into this natural phenomenon. Apparently when the waves come in air is forced into these underground pockets and is forced up through the "blowholes". We got a few great shots of Steve having his shirt blown up by the force of the air. When we got ready to head out again we saw a roadside vendor offering coconuts for sale. Claudia and I didn't want to pass up the experience of at least trying the fresh coconut juice one time, so we strutted over to the stand and bought one to share. A big, brown, hulking native Tahitian whipped out his machete and demonstrated how to crack open the coconut. In no time he had the top open and turned into a gentle lamb as he smiled at us and placed four straws in the coconut so we could all taste it. Well...the flavor was not all that great, but what an experience! Now we can say "been there, done that". We continued on our tour of the circumference of the island of Tahiti, taking in all the beautiful sights until we arrived at our original starting point. What a day!

Dinner time is quickly approaching, so the four of us agreed to get cleaned up and meet for the evening. Since the bar is in our cabin we agreed that Claudia & Steve would come over for cocktails before heading out to the Club Restaurant. Thus began our daily routine. We enjoyed it so much that we plan to make it a habit. Who knows - before long we may be hosting a daily party in the "Cajun Cabin"! Our first evening in the Club Restaurant was a positive experience. We found the food to be excellent and the service superb. I thought the portions were perfect to allow sampling from each delicious course. After dinner we all went up to the top deck for a little bon voyage celebration as we sailed out of the harbor in Papeete. Our celebration didn't last very long since it's been a very long day and we're wiped out! I didn't realize it would take a full two days before I felt back to normal and was able to sleep and function normally.

MONDAY, May 29th

Even though we were so exhausted, at 4:30 am we were both wide awake again. Oh well, I guess we're improving since yesterday we were up at 2:30. Again, going back to sleep was impossible, so we just got up and prepared for our arrival in stunning Moorea. As we sailed into Cook's Bay it was just like the scene I remembered from the movie "The Bounty" with Mel Gibson. This is the most gorgeous place I have ever encountered. The contrasts in the landscape are quite dramatic. There are jagged peaks and dramatic valleys - all covered with lush green vegetation. But honestly words cannot do it justice. Even the great shots Hank got with the video camera don't give you the true feeling of how beautiful this island is. We'll just have to rely on our memories to get a true feeling of what it was like to experience Moorea.

Our first morning on the island was spent touring the interior in a 4 X 4 Land Rover. We got to experience firsthand the rugged terrain of this glorious island. Our guide Chris was hilarious and made the trip lots of fun. He drove us through stream beds, splashing water on everyone and evoking squeals of laughter we hadn't given up in some time. In between his hilarious antics he became a sincere instructor. First he showed us the vanilla bean plantation and explained the process by which the beans are cultivated beginning with hand pollination. Then came the pineapple fields - how incredible! In an area populated by many trees and other plants, he stopped and cut off a branch of a tree similar to bamboo and proceeded to strip the cover and fiber off of the stalk. He then demonstrated how the native Polynesians used this fiber to make ropes. Then came the fun part - he showed us how to make a Hula skirt out of the fibers. The most interesting stop on this excursion was at the agricultural school where students spend two years learning to grow various agricultural products. There was a refreshment area where you could purchase various souvenirs such as T-shirts Vanilla Beans and Jam. The girls working were so genuinely sweet. Hank and I decided to purchase five jars of pineapple-vanilla jam to bring home as unique gifts and the girls were so excited about their "huge" sale that they actually broke into celebratory squeals! Since they were so happy I took advantage of an opportunity to practice speaking the Polynesian phrase I had learned the day before, so I told her "Maruru" - thank you. She broke into an even bigger grin and replied "NaNa" (you're welcome) What a neat experience. Our final stop was at the juice factory where we were given four different samples of "juice" to try with alcohol content in increasing increments. We absolutely loved the "Tahiti Juice" with alcohol content of 10% and purchased a couple of cartons for the journey. (Life's a journey - enjoy the ride, right?) Besides, they might come in handy for "cocktails in the Cajun Cabin" a little later! This concluded our 4 X 4 excursion.

Back at the pier we ran into Claudia and Steve at the shopping area set up for cruise passengers. Claudia and I each found cute Polynesian outfits we liked and decided we'd wear them to dinner that evening. After returning to the ship to stow our purchases and grab a bite to eat we decided to take a taxi and go off in search of good snorkeling nearby. We ended up at the Beachcomber Parkroyal, a decent property with decent snorkeling. We saw several interesting fish and I witnessed a fascinating event. There was something laying at the bottom of the lagoon which looked like a colorful rock. It was a light grayish/purple color, so it caught my eye. Upon closer examination, I saw that it was moving. Since Claudia is experienced at snorkeling I motioned for her to come over and look at what I was seeing. She said it looked like a variety of sea cucumber. As we watched, it actually laid two eggs! What an experience! The next thing that caught my eye was pretty neat also. I saw something laying at the bottom of the lagoon and got really angry that people would litter in paradise. So I took it upon myself to dive down and "clean up" the litter. I discovered the item was a phone card that someone had lost and tucked it into my belt thinking it would make a good souvenir anyway. It turned out that it had plenty of credit remaining and I was able to call and check in at home without paying anything! We returned to the ship tired but very happy.

There was just enough time to get cleaned up for dinner - tonight we had reservations for dinner at The Grill Restaurant at 7:30 pm. As has become the custom, we agree to meet in the "Cajun Cabin" for cocktails before dinner. Claudia & Steve arrived promptly (as usual) at 7:00. Claudia and I were garbed in our Polynesian attire so we took advantage of a photo opportunity and all posed for pictures of each other for our photo albums. After a quick cocktail we headed up to the Grill Restaurant - what a place! I must make one comment. The head waiter, Jakko was one of the best I've seen. (And I'm in the restaurant business) He was imminently professional yet at the same time casual and friendly. I felt extremely pampered. The meal was excellent, and after a long and active day we all retired early since we must rest up for the good times ahead. Tomorrow we have two excursions scheduled - a private lagoon tour in the morning and a two-hour wave runner excursion in the afternoon. I've really been looking forward to the wave runner since we're boat people and love the water.

TUESDAY, May 30th

We awakened to find a heavy wind blowing and extremely choppy seas. The sailboats moored in Cook's Bay are bobbing up and down unmercifully. The captain of the R3 made a valiant attempt at entering Oponahu Bay for tendering, but the conditions were just too dangerous. Although we were very disappointed, Hank and I thought it was a very prudent decision when the cruise director announced that the shore excursions were canceled due to unsafe tendering conditions. Anyone with experience in boating would have to agree that the bouncing tenders would be unsafe to load and unload passengers, especially since a good number of the passengers aboard are older. We accepted the news with good humor and went on about our day. I must say I was impressed with the way the R3 staff handled this setback. They had a number of onboard activities scheduled immediately to give folks who could not go ashore something to do. I'm sure there will be those who feel the need to complain about missing their excursions in Moorea - there always seem to be complainers. We were able to use the day to catch up on our rest and get acquainted with the beautiful R3. This really is quite a lovely vessel. It's the first Renaissance ship I've experienced, but after seeing the quality of their operation firsthand it definitely won't be the last. After unsuccessfully attempting to enter the bay safely one more time so passengers could attend their afternoon excursions, the captain called it off and sailed for Huahine. The seas were rough and a number of passengers (including me) had problems with seasickness. Bonine seems to be the best solution for me since it also helps with other motion sickness issues. I generally get car sick if I ride in the back seat of a vehicle, but on this trip the Bonine I've taken has eliminated the problem. I've been 4 X 4ing all over the place!

WEDNESDAY, May 31st

We arrived in Huahine first thing on Wednesday morning. What a fantastic place! Just when you think you've seen the most beautiful place in the world another one comes along. On this day unfortunately all morning water excursions again had to be canceled due to unsafe conditions. The land excursions were conducted as scheduled, although everyone got soaked with heavy downpours. Due to my past life as a rodeo rider I chose not to participate in any of the Renaissance excursions in Huahine since there was an opportunity to do a little horseback riding on this island. The owner of "Le Petite Ferme" picked us up at the shuttle bus stop in Fare as promised. I had called from Papeete on Sunday to reserve the horses. So off we went with our friends Claudia & Steve to ride horses through some of the most beautiful areas I've seen. Our guide first gave us instructions on the horses we'd be riding. After learning about our trusty steeds we took off to enjoy the equestrian experience of a lifetime. We were led through beautiful vegetation until we emerged on the beach of Huahine. There was a reef along the beach that looked like a great place to do some snorkeling. We got to gallop our horses along the beach in paradise - any horseman's dream come true! After a brief stop for a photo opportunity we proceeded toward what our guide called the "Lake", which was actually a lagoon. On the way we rode alongside the runway at the Huahine airport and had the opportunity to watch three planes take off. I definitely would not be happy flying in this weather! After riding a short distance farther we arrived at a beautiful lagoon with crystal clear water. We actually rode the horses into the water and down the coast a short distance. It was quite an experience. From here we proceeded back to the farm where we put the horses in their respective stalls and were driven back to the ship. Even though we were all soaked to the bone from the inclement weather, we enjoyed our morning exploring Huahine on horseback.

As we waited for our tender I spoke with the Renaissance representative on duty about why they did not offer a horseback excursion on this island. He explained that any tour operator they choose to do business with was required to meet certain standards with regard to safety and insurance coverage. If an operator does not meet these standards Renaissance will not work with them. Since Hank is an attorney we could definitely understand the logic of these remarks. This is one of the reasons we feel it is best to stick with the Renaissance excursions wherever possible. I have heard numerous people comment about how terrible it is that Ren takes a percentage of each excursion fee from the operators. I wonder if anyone stops to consider the fact that Renaissance has paid for the jet airplane that flew all of these people here, Renaissance has paid to build this lovely ship we are so enjoying, Renaissance is paying all of the expenses involved with the entire trip and if it weren't for Renaissance Cruises, there would be no customers to generate the fees they are complaining about! Tourism on these islands has been increased dramatically since Renaissance began sailing here. It seems to me there should be more loyalty toward Ren excursions among the operators on the islands. Instead of going out and recruiting business from Ren's passengers on the sly they should do what they're being paid for. Unfortunately the result of these practices will undoubtedly be an increase in cruise prices. From the point of view of a person who booked this trip based on the value of the price, it's a real shame.

As has become the custom we all meet in the "Cajun Cabin" before dinner. This evening we have a welcome addition to our growing group - Roger and Mary Smith from Chicago. We were fortunate enough to meet the Smiths on the 4 X 4 excursion in Moorea. After introducing them to Claudia and Steve, we shared a little good cheer and headed off for an excellent dinner at the Club Restaurant. We enjoyed a relaxing dinner with pleasant conversation after which everyone headed off in their own direction, agreeing to meet the following morning since we had all scheduled the 4 X 4 & Canoe excursion in Raiatea. Hank and I decided to try our luck in the casino at the blackjack table. As usual, it was a bad idea...but we only did it for fun after all. It's amazing how exhausted we're becoming. Each night it becomes more and more difficult to keep our eyes open. But our philosophy is that there's plenty of time to sleep when we get home!

THURSDAY, June 1st

This morning we awaken to find the ship docking in Raiatea. As I said before, each place we visit seems a little more beautiful than the last. At this point it seems as if things couldn't possibly get much better. Since Raiatea has a pier, the R3 is docked and we don't have to tender to shore. We meet all our buddies pierside for the fun excursion. Roger and Mary have introduced us to another fun couple from Florida (by way of New Jersey) by the name of Bud and Joan Force. We are the rowdiest group around and everyone can see quite clearly what a great time we're having. The first portion of our morning excursion was by motorized outrigger canoe. Our guide took us along the coastline and into the bays of Raiatea. In the second bay we proceeded all the way across where we discovered the entrance to the Faaroa River - the only navigable river in French Polynesia. It seems we are quickly using up our available camera film. There is one photo opportunity after another...this place is amazing! After exploring the river we moved on to the second portion of our excursion, the 4 X 4 through the interior of the island. I suppose everyone except our driver was pretty glad when our group of eight all piled into the same 4 X 4 and left them to their peace and quiet! What a ride! Hank took it upon himself to keep everyone in stitches along the way. A great spirit of friendship was established as we all broke into one song after another. Our tour guide was very informative about the island of Raiatea. He took us to a sacred Marae where he explained the ancient ritual of sacrificing men to the gods. What a fascinating place. Our guide was so descriptive you could almost imagine what actually took place on this very ground all those years ago. After this stop we proceeded around the island to a gorgeous lookout atop the mountain. Of course we snapped more great photographs. The last part of our journey taught us about the local vegetation in the area, the most fascinating of which is the Noni Fruit, said to hold curative powers for diseases such as cancer.

We were having such a raucous good time that our excursion was more than hour late in its conclusion. We didn't mind a bit - we just had to RUN to our cabin and grab our snorkeling equipment for our afternoon excursion. We were itching to get out and do some playing on the water, so we scheduled the Private Raiatea Canoe Tour. There was just enough time to grab a quick lunch at the Panorama Buffet before heading out. Not having to take the tender to shore helps out a lot when you have lots of things planned in one day. We boarded another outrigger canoe and headed off in the same direction as this morning. When our guide Francis took us into the river again we thought we must have made a mistake in booking the same excursion as before. But this time we went slightly beyond the point at which we had turned around this morning and discovered the entrance to a beautiful Botanical Garden. This was the best place to see all of the flora & fauna unique to French Polynesia. Francis was the best tour guide yet. Even though his English was so broken it was difficult to interpret, his enthusiasm more than compensated. He continuously broke into the most sincere, captivating giggles. The sound was so genuine it made me see what a hospitable people the Polynesians really are. By the end of the afternoon I had become buddies with Francis and his cohort Ramos. The best part of the journey was next. We went to a motu for snorkeling. Francis selected the best location to anchor our boat and happily dived into the awaiting Pacific Ocean. At first I was nervous about jumping into the deep blue water - I always get timid when trying new things. Then Hank and I jumped in together and any trepidation quickly turned to wonder as I observed what lay below the surface of this beautiful blue lagoon. Fish and coral were abundant. Francis detected my apprehension, so he followed me around in the water, continuously asking me "you OK? you OK?" He was really sweet. Suddenly he innocently popped out with the question (in VERY broken English) "wanna see octopus?" Of course I did! He directed me to a nearby location and pointed - I couldn't see anything. So he swam to the floor of the lagoon and touched what looked like a rock. It moved! Here was my first glimpse of an octopus in its natural environment. I was grinning from ear to ear. When Francis popped up and saw my smile he let out another giggle and said, "wanna see eel?" Of course I did! Here we go again. Francis again took me to the proper location and pointed. Again, I couldn't see anything. He took off toward the coral again and actually disturbed the moray eel so it would come after him, allowing me to glimpse it. Fortunately, the eel did not attack Francis, but he did come out and we had a great "sighting". This afternoon has been too good to be true!

Snorkeling time was over, so we headed over to a motu for a little R & R. What a peaceful location. There were coconut trees everywhere...therefore coconuts. Francis grabbed his handy machete and proceeded to cut the tops off for us. We drank the freshest coconut juice you can imagine - now THIS is what coconut really tastes like. The next step was scooping out the meat of the coconut for us to eat, which Francis did with abandon. What a great role model for Polynesian men. Unfortunately the sun was beginning to go down and it was time to head back to the R3. As we were leaving the motu we had a chance encounter with a stingray, which provided even more photo opportunities.

This evening we have reservations with Claudia and Steve in the Italian Restaurant. After meeting for cocktail hour in the "Cajun Cabin" we went up to the restaurant. Although I'm certain it's just a matter of personal taste, this restaurant was just not for me. My palette probably just needs a little fine tuning! We were pretty exhausted from our long day of excursions so we turned in after dinner. As it turns out, night life on the ship has not been our area of focus in the least. We're so busy taking in the beauty of each waking hour that we're too worn out for night life!

FRIDAY, June 2nd

Day two in Raiatea brought us the opportunity to visit Tahaa, Raiatea's sister island. We were taken by boat to a private pearl farm where we were given a short description on the process of black pearl cultivation. This is a prominent industry in French Polynesia and the process is quite fascinating. Of course after the lecture we were given the opportunity to purchase the lovely pearls. Hank keeps hoping to purchase a black pearl for me but I'm more interested in excursions and T-shirts than spending that much money on pearls! (I realize most people will consider this to be flawed logic!)

On to a lovely motu for more snorkeling. I am quickly becoming a snorkeling fanatic! On this excursion we were able to snap numerous underwater photographs. Hopefully we got some great shots. We returned to the ship to enjoy a few leisurely minutes while getting cleaned up and dressed. We were fortunate enough to be invited to tour the bridge and meet the captain this afternoon - Hank is chomping at the bit! Upon meeting the assistant cruise director at the reception desk as instructed, we found several other friendly passengers waiting to take the tour as well. We were all led up the stairs and instructed to keep our voices low while on the bridge so the captain's voice could be heard. Once we arrived we were confronted with the most magnificent view aboard the ship. It was incredible. I was surprised to find that we were allowed to take photographs. I feel bad because Hank wanted to bring his video camera along but I thought it would be tacky. Oh well, I got a great still shot of Hank shaking hands with the Captain, so maybe he'll forgive me. We were allowed to remain in the bridge and observe as the able crew set sail from Raiatea - what an incredible experience! We paid close attention as the ship was maneuvered along the coast of Tahaa to the passage through the coral reef and out into the Pacific Ocean. As we made our final turn to navigate the narrow ocean passage, a group of dolphins jumped across our path. What a perfect highlight for the culmination of our experience on the bridge.

This evening we have reservations in the Grill Restaurant with Claudia and Steve. We tried to conserve some of our energy today since we promised to have an after-dinner cocktail with them tonight. (We've been such duds!) Again, we had a wonderful experience at the Grill. I would have to say that except for the inconvenience of having to make reservations in advance this is by far my favorite dining venue aboard the ship. The food is consistently good while the service has been outstanding. The Club Restaurant is probably the overall favorite since it is much more accessible. After a fabulous meal we decided to try the sports bar since we had not been there yet. It was a lovely place and I had a really good time introducing the bartender to the "Cajun Boogaloo", a cocktail originating in my family in Louisiana. He was quite impressed with the concoction and asked me to write down the instructions for him. OK Renaissance - consider this fair warning: I want a percentage of sales for each Cajun Boogaloo served! After a feeble attempt at partying the night away we decided we weren't quite as able as we thought. Off to bed by 10:30 yet again...

SATURDAY, June 3rd

We awoke to find that incredibly - yes, the earth we live on has an even MORE beautiful place. It's known as Bora Bora. Never in my life have I experienced the mixture of emotions I felt at my first sighting of this Heaven on earth. This is without a doubt the most amazing place I have ever laid eyes on. It's not enough to say words cannot do it justice - not even photographs can do it justice! Even replaying images from the video camera is not the same. You have to experience it! You can compare the most beautiful postcard available and still not understand how captivating this island is. From the moment I arrived, I never wanted to leave. THIS is what has been calling me to the South Pacific. After enjoying a nice breakfast on our balcony we departed for one of the busiest days of our lives. Upon exiting our cabin we discovered a note in the door notifying us that the wave runner excursion we signed up for was canceled due to lack of participation. I was extremely disappointed since this was to be the high point of my trip. Nevertheless, we departed for our horseback excursion - no time to cry over spilled milk, right? We rode the tender to the pier in Bora Bora where we found representatives of Renaissance Cruises orchestrating tour departures. Ours was running just a little late, so we had the opportunity to play around at the surrounding shops while we waited for our ride. At last our driver arrived and took us to a small pier a couple of miles away where a motorized outrigger canoe picked us up and transported us to a private motu across the lagoon. Our guide, Olivier apparently owns this operation and manages it himself. He introduced our group of six to the horses - HOORAY - western saddles! Hank and I were very happy to see them, but Claudia preferred English. Oh well, if it's any consolation the saddles in Huahine were English. Olivier was a Frenchman with lots of character. He kept us laughing and interested the entire ride. It was somewhat disappointing that we were unable to gallop along the beach but one of the couples were novice riders and having a difficult time of it. Olivier felt it was best not to push them. By the last leg of our ride I had started up quite a budding friendship with my new pal Olivier. We discussed his plans to develop his operation to for future tourism. I even got a job offer! Unfortunately it's difficult to obtain citizenship in French Polynesia so it looks like I'm out of luck.

Oh well... I was bellyaching to Olivier about the cancellation of our wave runner tour. So he simply picked up his cellular phone and made one telephone call - the whole thing was arranged. We would be picked up at 1:30 pm at the pier for a two-hour wave runner excursion. This made my day! After bidding a fond farewell to my buddy Olivier we were escorted back to the pier by our friendly Polynesian driver. No time for a quick bite today...who needs food when there are wave runners to ride across the lagoon of Bora Bora? Our tour operators were there as promised at 1:30 pm. Two other couples had booked directly and were sharing our tour. Everyone was really friendly and compatible which made the trip even more fun. Of course the best part for Hank was that he got to drive the fun machine. (Something about a jet ski brings out the little boy in all men!) I was quite content to sit back and observe the magnificent landscape go by as we circumnavigated the island. Again, words simply cannot do it justice. If you're not a religious person when you arrive at this island it's awesome enough to make you a devout believer before you leave! Our experienced guide led us completely around the island of Bora Bora. Gliding over the calm lagoon made it even easier to observe the multitudes of colors that accent the water. The shades range from crystal clear to emerald green to turquoise to sapphire blue - it's absolutely incredible! Along the way we stopped at a motu for refreshments. Our Polynesian hosts taught us how to enjoy one of their favorite snacks - banana sandwiches. What a treat! They slice the banana down the middle lengthwise, then place shredded coconut between the slices to make a "sandwich". The flavor was so refreshing I ate three of them! No lunch, remember? (Likely excuse) The Polynesians seem to be very trusting people. They never collect your money until after they have earned it. When Hank settled up with the tour operator after our fun ride we found that our buddy Olivier had negotiated quite a discount for us. We paid $ 20.00 less than the others - thanks Olivier! Again, we arrived at the pier just in time for our next excursion. Thankfully this one will require absolutely no effort on our part - it's been quite a long day! Our final excursion for the day is the Sunset Lagoon Sail. We want to experience the romance of a beautiful sunset in the South Pacific aboard a luxury catamaran. It turns out there were two problems with this plan: 1) The clouds have moved in and the sunset is not so spectacular; and 2) Our buddies Roger & Mary and Bud & Joan are on board - PARTY TIME! Instead of the relaxing sail we expected we had howls of laughter and good times. Oh well, it was a very happy compromise.

After this incredibly long day we opted to grab dinner at the Club Restaurant. We were seated with another couple and two ladies at a table for six. One of the ladies immediately commented on how much fun we were on the boat and asked us to repeat our "Cajun Cruisers" chant - how embarrassing! I seem to have forgotten that the things we do in public come back to haunt us. (Roger, if you post that picture on the internet, I've got one to blackmail you with!) We were so very exhausted I'm afraid we were not very good dinner companions. The minute we got back to the Cajun Cabin we were sound asleep.

SUNDAY, June 4th

Thankfully we haven't scheduled anything until 11:15, so we are able to take it easy this morning. It's a little difficult to have a leisurely morning when you're stressed. Hank's stress is good, mine bad. He's pumped up because we're going for a helicopter ride. Me - well, you know...the flying thing again! But this is Hank's day to pick any activities he wants and I did promise I'd go along with him, so might as well get it over with. We went to the pier a little early and did the last of my shopping. I'm such a T-shirt hound. The van arrives to pick us up for the helicopter trip. It was a little disconcerting for me to find that our pilot was also the driver of the van - remember, Jackie - they do things a little differently in Tahiti. It turns out he's a really nice guy and he assures me that everything will be just fine. Hank got to ride shotgun and the three ladies took the back seat. Once we took off all of my fears were forgotten as I became awestruck by the dramatic scenery laid out before us. Our pilot was very considerate. All of a sudden he would swoop down toward the water (and scare me half to death!) only to announce "Look, there's a sea turtle" or "See the stingray?" The water is so amazingly clear that you can actually see the turtles, rays, sharks and various other critters as they swim around the lagoon. This exceeds my wildest expectations. After 15 minutes in the air (which seemed like an eternity to me) we gently touched down on the landing pad at the heliport. I don't think I've ever seen Hank so thrilled. He had the time of his life.

Since our afternoon excursion meets on board the ship we have an extra minute to grab a cheeseburger in paradise. I thought the hamburgers and hot dogs on the ship were great, but remember I said my palette needs a little refining! For our afternoon adventure, Hank has gotten me into another doozy - shark and ray feeding! What started out as a nerve wracking experience ended up as one of the neatest times for me. After attracting sharks and stingrays for photo opportunities our guides gave us an hour or so to snorkel and led us to a place called the Coral Garden. I never knew such a place existed on this earth. This was the most beautiful coral I've ever seen...I thought this stuff was only for aquariums. We took scads of photos with our underwater cameras. If one third of them turn out decent we'll have quite a fantastic album. We snorkeled until we couldn't snorkel any more. Then our whimsical guides took us to an area where they fed the stingrays. They summoned these majestic creatures with food and we must have had a close encounter with at least twenty of them. I was too cold to venture back into the water so I volunteered for camera duty while Hank went to play with the beasts. Hopefully I got some decent shots of Hank touching the rays. The guides took pity on those of us who were not inclined to be in the water and actually lifted a ray out of the water so we could touch it and feel its texture. This was the end of another great excursion.

It occurred to us as we returned to the ship that this was the last day with our friends in Paradise. We are the only couple in this close-knit "gang" who will be flying home on Tuesday. All of the others leave tomorrow. It's hard to believe our time together is almost over. But even though our itineraries have been hectic and we haven't seen each other much since arriving in Bora Bora everyone else seemed to be having the same thoughts. Each couple called and wanted to get together for a farewell, so we decided to have one final gathering in the Cajun Cabin. Everyone turned up at the magic hour. At last we had the perfect evening to gather on the balcony. Not too windy, not too chilly - just right! In the cajun tradition we "passed a good time". After ten days on this ship our stomachs are trained to growl at the designated hour so we all became hungry and decided it was dinner time. We arrived at the Club Restaurant and requested a table for eight - this would take some arranging! No problem, we all grabbed a seat in the club bar and continued our happy time. Dinner was great. It was lobster night so most everyone was anxious to sample the poor crustaceans - except me, that is. Give me a good steak any day. I had the beef tenderloin. The pleasant evening passed much too quickly and before we knew it we were all saying our goodbyes. These are such great folks. I pray our paths will cross again.

MONDAY, June 5th

After a night of tossing and turning we got up and met Claudia & Steve for breakfast. This magnificent voyage began with the four of us sharing quality time so it seems only fitting we should end it the same way. After a teary-eyed farewell, Hank and I set out on our own to see what kind of trouble we could stir up. We ended up jumping a ferry to Moorea for a little extra snorkeling. After all, we did miss one day in Moorea as a result of windy conditions, so here's a chance at redemption. When we landed at the pier, we had no idea how to go about getting a ride to the Sofitel Hotel where I'd heard the snorkeling was great. Hank was getting really aggravated with me because he's a planner and doesn't enjoy flying by the seat of his pants. Well, I told him to grab onto my shirt tails and I'd get him there somehow. I went around searching the area until I found a shuttle driver who was willing to give us a ride to the Sofitel. When he dropped us off in front of the hotel we tried to pay him but he wouldn't accept any money. I told Hank he needed to have a little more faith in me! We made our way to a spot on the beach that looked interesting and off to snorkel I went. I was really disappointed since there wasn't much to see. I'm afraid my experience at the coral garden in Bora Bora has spoiled me! Nothing else can compare.

We spent the afternoon in the sun and were surprised to look up and find another couple from the ship (Judith and Rod Streng) walking toward us. We greeted them and ended up becoming a foursome. What a pleasant surprise. After we'd all had enough sun and snorkeling it was a simple task to grab a taxi for a ride back to the pier. We had a little time to kill so we walked over to the local vendor's booth and purchased fresh bananas and pineapples for a snack. It was incredibly fresh and tasty. We made it back to the R3 in time to get cleaned up for one last visit to the Club Restaurant for dinner. We ate alone as we thought about the friends we had made during the voyage. Now we had the pleasant task ahead of packing all of our things for collection by 8:00 am. It's amazing how much "stuff" you accumulate over a 10-day period! There never seems to be enough room in the suitcases, but after lots of maneuvering we finally got the job done. Now it seems as if the trip is finally over.

TUESDAY, June 6th

Renaissance does a fantastic job with the disembarkation process. Everything was completely organized, with proper instructions that made the entire process painless. I feel the need to make a very important point here...on this last day, I saw more people than I cared to bitching and moaning about one thing or another - nothing of any substance, it just seemed as if everyone was generally unhappy. It finally occurred to me that it was because this was departure day and nobody wanted to leave paradise! When we arrived at the Sheraton hotel for a little more R & R compliments of Renaissance Cruises we were happy to find the most beautiful grounds and swimming pool. We couldn't resist the opportunity to grab a lounge chair by the pool and chill out for the afternoon. We met another nice couple, Barbara and Bill McColl and got caught up in a series of interesting discussions. It was a great way to spend the afternoon. Before I knew it the sun was setting over the beautiful Pacific Ocean. It was the most gorgeous sunset yet and we had a birds-eye view. During a short trip to the conference room where the refreshments were being served I noticed that a large number of people were just sitting around in the room doing nothing. There is SO MUCH available to do here - why are these people sitting around being miserable? Renaissance provides as much information as possible about what is available to you, including cabs and LeTruck back into town if you're not interested in staying there. Even though all of these activities are at their disposal, people seem to prefer sitting back and complaining about how unbearable the last day is. After months of reading posts on the message board about this last day at the Sheraton I now understand that the complaints are not due to any problems with Renaissance or the hotel, it's just that everybody is grumpy because they have to go home! The withdrawal process begins the moment you exit your cabin and realize you won't be back. Oh well, I guess that's enough to make anyone grumpy, right?

Finally it was time to depart for the airport. This process was handled efficiently as well. All passengers were at the FAAA airport ahead of schedule. The only criticism I have of this process is that once Hawaiian Airlines takes over things get a little hectic. Instead of boarding the airplane by row they simply called all Business Class at once. This created a mad dash rather than an orderly boarding. I'm sure it was the same for coach class. But thankfully most of the passengers were really great and we all finally boarded the plane. I ordered a quick champagne cocktail (just to help the Xanax go down, you understand!) When I woke up dinner was being served. I wasn't hungry when it was time to order so the flight attendant was kind enough to include me when he served dessert. After this I was quite happy and slept the rest of the night. The pilot awakened us about 1 1/2 hours before reaching LAX so we could be awake and alert for breakfast service and landing. The trip concluded without a hitch and we were through customs and in possession of our luggage within 30 minutes. Now we're all set for the final leg of our journey home...to cajun land!

EPILOGUE

I would like to conclude my epic adventure by complimenting Renaissance Cruises on a job well done. There have been so many negative and unfair things written about them and now that I've finally actually experienced the trip of my dreams I can without a doubt say that it was the most exciting adventure of my life. I may not be one of the most experienced cruisers on board, but I'm certainly one of the happiest. The faults were few and the great times were abundant.

One final note: I stand by my original post on the Frommer's site. I can now say thanks to Renaissance not only for a great booking experience, but also for a great cruising experience. With six R vessels in the water and the 7th on the way I think they are well on their way to establishing themselves as the premier cruise line of the new century. Since I originally made this statement I've happily noticed lots of great press about Renaissance in publications such as Travel Holiday, Mature Traveler and an outstanding cover on Cruise Travel magazine along with a four page article featuring Renaissance Cruises. Way to go Ren - I can say I had good taste before they made it to number one!