In contrast, the largest dam in the United States and the third largest in the world, Grand Coulee in Washington state, produces 6,480 megawatts of power. The current "world's largest dam", the Itaipu on the border of Brazil and Paraguay, produces 12,600 megawatts of power. Closure of the gap in the Yangtze was completed in June 2003, and the water started backing up. All along the river above the dam are large painted marks measuring the rise of the water. The water will eventually rise to 175 meters (574 feet) above sea level.
The dam was first contemplated by Dr. Sun Yat Sen in 1919, but the project was not begun until 1994. In the first decade of construction, the dam continues to be a source of controversy in China and abroad. Proponents speak of the flood control, electricity production, improved navigation, and recreational opportunities. They also point to the 20,000 - 30,000 workers who are working 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. What a jobs program!
Opponents tell about the relocation of two million Chinese citizens, the loss of farmland and historical sites, and the threat to rare species such as the Chinese sturgeon, Yangtze alligator, and Yangtze river dolphin. Opponents also worry about the sediment that will fill up the lake unless it is dredged constantly, and the poor water quality that may result from city and industrial waste being discharged directly into the lake.
We began our passage through the four locks of the dam before dawn, and exited the locks about 4 hours later. The locks were huge, and the Viking Century Star was packed into the locks with several other ships of all types--passenger, cargo, large and small. It was interesting watching the other ships and their passengers and crew close up during our time together in the locks. One word of caution--a strong diesel smell from all the boat engines drove most of us from the outside decks and balconies back inside the Century Star periodically.
After we exited the locks, the ship docked and we boarded buses for a visit to the dam museum and exhibition hall. The exhibits were fascinating, and the model of the dam and the surrounding river and gorge area helped pull the story together for me. The Chinese government has put together an interesting pictorial story of the dam's construction in this exhibition. After a short time viewing the exhibits, we drove to the dam site. It was a foggy day, which gave the huge dam a mysterious shroud. It was a great way to wrap up our cruise of the amazing Yangtze.
We returned to the ship, ate lunch, and reboarded the buses for the scenic ride along the crest of the mountains to the Yichang Airport. The Viking Century Star normally cruises for 3 more days to Wuhan, but we were on a shortened voyage. So, we said goodbye to the Yangtze, the Three Gorges, and the Viking Century Star. It was an amazing journey in an amazing part of the world. Over the next several years the Yangtze will be changing--whether it is for better or worse remains to be seen, but a great way to see it is with Viking River Cruises!
Author's Note: Viking River Cruises no longer operates the Viking Century Star river ship. However, Viking's other ships sail similar itineraries and offer the same great river cruise experience.
