We usually went ashore in the whaleboats soon after breakfast. The ship had two whaleboats that held about 20 passengers each, so it took several trips to ferry all of us ashore. Because of the waves and the small or non-existent docks on the islands, taking the whaleboat ashore and back to the Aranui can be quite an "experience". The gangway has steep stairs and the whaleboat has high sides, so we all appreciated the Marquesan sailors' help in getting into and out of the boats.
Once ashore, we were greeted by smiling island residents with plumeria blooms or fresh floral leis. The arrival of the Aranui once each month is a major event for the islanders. The dock area was always bustling with trucks, forklifts, and people waiting to unload supplies. Others were waiting to load their sacks of copra or barrels of noni juice, the two primary items picked up in the islands by the Aranui. Most island residents set up a small area for selling handicrafts. We had to make sure we had plenty of local currency cash--Central Pacific Francs--to use to buy souvenirs. The ship could change dollars or euros, and most of the islands had a bank that would also change money. We never saw a vendor who took credit cards, but some of the vendors would take dollars or euros if you did not have the local currency.
On four of the islands we had a special Marquesan lunch ashore in a local restaurant. The food was served buffet or family style, and we also had Polynesian dancing and music to accompany our meal. We all enjoyed trying some of the native foods. Breadfruit is a key staple of the Marquesan diet, and we were amazed at the many different ways it could be prepared. Other traditional dishes included lobster, poisson cru (raw fish marinated in lime juice or vinegar and then served in coconut milk, oil, and topped with onions), freshwater shrimp, goat, pork, and popoi (Marquesan-style poi).
Four other days we had a barbecue or picnic ashore prepared by crew from the ship, either high up in the mountains or on a beach.
Not all the activities ashore involved eating. Sometimes we toured the local Catholic church, many of which had fascinating artwork or wooden sculptures. We often hiked or rode 4-wheel-drive trucks to ancient Polynesian maraes or other archaeological sites. A few ports included the opportunity to swim or snorkel. Our adventuresome group also visited museums and graveyards, and some passengers went horseback riding or diving.
We felt like the shore activities were varied enough for anyone. When you package the shore excursions with the unspoiled, magnificent scenery of the Tuamotu and Marquesas Islands, it makes for a wonderful cruise vacation for the adventurous, flexible traveler, who doesn't require a lot of pampering or amenities. We left home with a sense of adventure and a curiousity about cruising on a passenger freighter to far flung islands. We came home with a new appreciation for the people and islands of French Polynesia and some great stories of life on a cruise freighter. What more could you ask for?
